London, part 1

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It Cannot be thought amiss here to add some remarke on y^e metropolis of England. London whose scituation on so noble a river as the Thames w^ch Emptyes it at y^e Boy of y^e Nore, being there joyned w^th y^e Medway another very fine river alsoe, and falls there into y^e sea w^ch is about 30 miles from London, and is an Ebbing flowing river as farre as Sheen beyond London. This is very Comodious for shipps w^ch did Come up just to y^e bridge, but from Carelessness y^e river is Choaked up, that obliges y^e shipps to Come to an anchor at Blackwall. All along this river are severall docks for building shipps of y^e biggest burden; six miles from the town y^e Last yeare was built y^e Royal Souveraign w^ch is our greatest ship. London joyned w^th Westminster, which are two great Cittyes but now w^th building so joyned it makes up but one vast building with all its Subburbs' and has in y^e walls ninety seven Parishes, without y^e walls 16 parishes, 15 subburbs, Surrey, Middlesex, 7 parishes in Westminster. London is y^e Citty properly for trade, Westminster for y^e Court, y^e first is divided into 24 wards to each which there is an alderman, and themselves Consist of Common Council men and all freemen of the Citty, and have power to Choose these aldermen and make their own orders and to maintain their own priviledges. All freemen or Livery men of this Citty hath a Right to Choose their sherriffs of w^ch Every yeare there is two, one for Middlesex y^e other y^e Corporation, but both are joyned and officiate together in all matters of juries justice or Ceremonies, and to maintaine all Rights. These freemen alsoe have their voyce in Choice of their Lord Major w^ch is done Every yeare with this Sollemnity, the Sheriffs being Chosen and sworne at Mid summer, y^e Michaelmas after y^e Lord Major is Chosen and sworne; y^e evening before which is Simon and Judes day is a feast Called Calveshead feast. Next day y^e old Lord Major Comes to meete y^e new one and w^th him on his Left hand is Conducted on horse back in all their gowns of scarlet Cloth Lined w^th ffurr; all y^e aldermen in Like Robes only differenc'd as their station, those of them w^ch have been Lord Majors weare a Gold Chaine Ever after, but those y^t have not passed y^e Chaire weare none. Y^e Lord Major is allwayes one of y^e aldermen and he has a great gold Chaine round his neck, the Sheriffs also weare a gold Chaine round their neck y^t yeare. Thus on horseback they proceed two and two w^th all their officers. Y^e Lord Major has his Sword bearer w^ch walkes before him w^th the Sword in an Embroyder'd Sheath he weares a Great velvet Cap of Crimson, the bottom and y^e top of ffurr or such Like standing up Like a turbant or Great bowle in forme of a Great open Pye, this is Called y^e Cap of Maintenance. This is y^e Lord Majors Chiefe officer, he holds his place Dureing his Life and has 1500 a yeare allowed him for his table w^ch in all things is as good as Lord Major's and he Entertaines all people at it, yet he himself must officiate at the Lord Majors table to see all things in order and Comes in at sett tymes accordingly to performe them and bring y^e Lord Majors Compliments to y^e Campanyes. He thus walkes before the Lord Mayor w^th y^e water Bayliff beareing a Gold Mace &. At Fleete ditch they Enter y^e Barges w^ch are all very Curiously adorned and thus he is Conducted y^e river being full of Barges belonging to y^e severall Companyes of London, adorned with streamers and their armes and fine musick, and have sack to drinke and Little Cakes as bigg as a Crown piece. They Come to Westminster staires where they Land and are Conducted, the Lord Majors traines being borne up as well y^e old as new Lord Major, they Enter Westminster Hall and are Conducted to y^e severall Courts of justice where there is severall Ceremonyes perform'd. The new Lord Major is presented to y^e King or those deputed to act under him and then is sworne, all which being over they are Conducted back to their Barges and soe to y^e staires they took barge, where they are received by some of y^e nobility deputed by the king who make some Little speech of Compliment and Give y^e Lord Major and aldermen a treate of wine and sweet meates passant. They mount on horseback and returne only y^e new Lord Major takes y^e right hand and haveing by y^e sheriffs invited y^e King and Court to dinner, w^ch sometymes they accept but mostly refuse, because it puts the Citty to a vast Charge; they being then Conducted through y^e Citty w^th Greate acclamations their own habits and trappings of their horses being very fine, and they haveing all the Severall Companyes of y^e Citty w^ch walke in their order and gowns w^th pagents to most or many of their Companyes, w^ch are a sort of Stages Covered and Carryed by men and on y^e top many men and boys acting y^e respective trades or Employ^ts of Each Company, some in shipps for y^e Merch^ts , and whatever Company the new Lord major is off his pageant is y^e finest and y^t Company has y^e precedency that yeare of all y^e Companyes Except y^e mercers Company, w^ch allwayes is the first and Esteemed y^e Greatest, and when there is a Lord Major of y^t Company their pageant is a maiden queen on a throne Crowned and with Royal Robes and scepter and most richly dressed, w^th Severall Ladyes dressed, her attendants, all on y^e same pageant and w^th a Cannopy over her head and drawn in an open Chariot w^th 9 horses very finely accouter'd and pages that Ride them all, w^th plumes of feathers. After being drawn through y^e Citty she is jnvited by y^e Lord major to a dinner provided on purpose for her, and soe many Rich Batchelors are appointed to Entertaine her that is a ranck among y^e freemen. She has her traine bore up and is presented to Lady Majoris that salutes her as doth the aldermens Ladyes, all w^ch are Conducted in their Coaches to Guildhall. The new Lady Majoress Richly habitted has her traine borne up, and Introduced by one of the officers. The Sheriffs Ladyes Likewise weares gold Chaines that yeare, the Lady majoress does wear it ever after as doe all y^e aldermens Ladyes whose husbands have been Lord majors, and as I said before y^e Lord Majors must be aldermen and must have served as sheriffs before, and allwayes y^e king Confers Knighthood on the person that is Chosen to be Sheriff unless he were a knight before.

In Guild Hall there are severall long tables plenty fully ffurnished w^th all sorts of varietyes suiteable to the season, w^th fine Desserts off sweetemeates, and jellys w^ch in Pyramidyes stand all y^e tyme; the hott meate is brought in in first and second Courses. The Lord Major and Lady Majoress sitt at the upper End but in Case the Court is there then the Lord Major has one table, y^e Lady another, and y^e old Lady Majoress is set at y^e Left hand of y^e new Lady, and the aldermens Ladyes at her Right hand according to their senioritye, after which they Retire into a Gallery where is danceing the whole Evening.

All this yeare Lord or Lady Majoress goe no where but w^th their officers to attend them, and y^e old Lord Major and Lady Majoress has their traines bore up to Guild Hall and after dinner return without it. The whole affaires of y^e Citty are managed by y^e Lord Major and Court of aldermen and Common Councill men, he is obliged to take care of justice and Right, he does during his yeare jnvite Each Company w^th all their Masters Wardens and officers twice- the Last tyme all their wives alsoe-the Sherriffs doe y^e Like. Each person brings their Gift two, three Guinneas, some more and according to their Gift at y^e Last Entertainment they have a silver spoon double Gilt, Either weighing soe many ounces and soe many as they Give Guinneas many tymes in the yeare: those y^t would shew particular respect will go dine w^th them and bring presents without haveing spoones.

All offices falling vacant in the Majoralty acruee to Lord Major to dispose off. There are 24 Companyes w^ch have each severall officers, as masters wardens &. , and doe meete to fix and maintaine their priviledges. They doe walke at y^e Lord Majors day and make sumptuous feasts at Each hall appertaineing to their Comp^y w^ch is at y^e Charge of y^e masters and wardens w^ch are officers Chosen new Every yeare. They have great stocks and Lands belonging to their Companyes Common stock, and w^ch does maintaine schooles and Hospitalls and such Like w^ch from tyme to tyme are Encreased by severall Benefactors and Legacyes, some of w^ch are greate as in y^e Mercers Company which have Lands to a great value for such Ends. There are severall feasts which Lord Major and Sherriffs are absolutely obliged to make at their first Entrance into their offices, two dayes following each other, and y^e first day of y^e terme to all y^e judges, and 3 dayes at Easter going to hear a sermon at S^t Brides Each day, and then to jnspect y^e severall Charityes and hospitalls y^t all be kept in due order and provided for. Y^e Lord Major and Sherriffs attends the King at all tymes to represent y^e Publick affaires of y^e Citty and receive his orders, they alsoe officiate at y^e proclaiming any new King or Queen or to Declare peace or warr, w^ch is done in Greate solemnity by y^e King at Arms and severall of y^e nobillity in Coaches or on horseback, and y^e officers of y^e kings household.

King Williams return after y^e peace was Concluded w^th Ffrance and y^e Confederates, the Kings Entry was in this manner, y^e Lord Major in Crimson velvet Gown w^th a Long traine on horseback attended by all his officers y^e sword bearer and water Baily very well dress'd. Y^e Common hunt was Clad in Green velvet, thus with all y^e aldermen in their scarlet gowns they proceeding to receive y^e King just at y^e End of Southwark on y^e borders of Kent, the Lord Major Carrying a scepter w^th a Crown of pearle on y^e top. Y^e King was attended thus, ffirst of all his soldiers and officers marched in Ranke, y^e aldermen and Lord Major and officers, then all y^e nobillity in their Coaches, the Bishops and judges, then y^e first Coach of y^e King w^th his household, then y^e guards of his body, and then the Coach where in y^e King was, w^ch was a very rich and Costly thing all y^e fring Rich Gold, y^e Glass very Large, the Standards and all outwork Like beaton Gold, drawn by 8 very fine white horses with Massy Gold harness and trappings, the Ffrench kings present to our king when the peace was concluded, y^e first article of w^ch was owning King William king of England. After the kings Coach a troope of guards de Corps, then the third Coach of y^e Kings w^th his houshold, and other Coaches with Severall officers of the houshold; then as the king passed Southwarke the Baily presented him his mace, he returned it with y^e usuall Ceremony and Grattification; then at y^e bridge y^e Lord Major demands his place and y^e sword, w^ch is to March as Captⁿ of y^e Kings guards just Imediately before y^e kings own Coach, w^ch accordingly was given him and he returns the said scepter to y^e proper officers who bear y^t and all y^e Maces before him, and he bare headed beares y^e sword on horseback just before the kings Coach. At y^e same tyme y^e water baily rides in the middle of y^e guards as their officer and is on horseback, two men Like pages Leading it, soe is Lord Majors in this order: they proceeding through the Citty w^ch from y^e Royal Exchange on Each side had placed the traine bands of the Citty with their officers, next them y^e 24 companyes of y^e Citty in their order and marks of their Honour and priviledges, w^ch reached to y^e Conduite in Cheapside, all w^ch paid their respective Homage and duty to y^e King who receiv'd it very kind and obligeingly, as he did y^e Generall joy and acclamations w^ch proceeded from thousands which were spectators. At Pauls Schoole y^e Schollars made him a speech and then he was Conducted to his own pallace at Whitehall. But before I leave the Citty of London I must describe its Building and treasure. Y^e Government as I said was Lord Major, aldermen, sherriffs, Recorder, and Chamberlaine, and other officers as Common serjeant, and other sergeants, sword Bearers, water Bayly, Common Cryer, and y^e town Clerke; all these with many other officers has Considerable salleryes and Endure their Life, Except y^e Chamberlaine thats annually Chosen tho' mostly is in the same person againe. Those others are in the Lord Majors dispose and brings a greate advantage to him if any dye in his Majoralty. There is alsoe many Considerable perquisitts belonging to him to support y^e honnour. The Citty plaite is kept for Each, notwithstanding in y^e year it Costs them more many tymes than they Receive, and in the whole I have had it from one y^t had been at y^e charge said it was above 8000^? in y^e year.

There is as I said great Publick Stock in the Citty by which they have raised sumptuous Buildings, the Royal Exchange for one, a Large space of Ground Enclosed round w^th Cloysters and open arches on w^ch are built many walkes of Shopps of all trades. Y^e middle space below was design'd and is used for the merchants to meete to Concert their buisness and trade and bills, w^ch is all open and on y^e top of these Piaza's are y^e Effigies in stone of most of our kings and Queens since y^e Conquest w^ch were anoynted Crowned heads, from whence this Exchange takes its name Royal. In y^e midst of it stands in stone work on a Pedestal y^e effigies of King Charles y^e second railed in w^th Iron spikes. There is alsoe at y^e Bridge a Great Monument of stone worke as is y^e Exchange; this is of a Great height 300 stepps up and on y^e top gives y^e view of y^e whole town. This was sett up in memory of Gods putting a Check to y^e Rageing flame w^ch by y^e plotts and Contrivance of y^e papists was Lighted. There is a Large Inscription on it all round mentioning it, and alsoe of y^e popish plott and y^e gun powd^r treason and all by y^e papists.

The Bridge is a stately building all stone w^th 18 arches most of them bigg Enough to admit a Large Barge to pass, its so broade that two Coaches drives a breast, and there is on Each side houses and shopps just Like any Large streete in y^e Citty, of w^ch there are many and well built, Even and Lofty, most has 5 if not 6 degrees. Most of y^e Halls belonging to Each Company are Large and Magnificent buildings, as alsoe y^e Churches very fine and Lofty of stone work. Y^e Greate Cathedrall is S^t Pauls w^ch was a vast building but burnt by fire, has since by y^e Citty been built up, or rather a tax on Coales w^ch brings all to pay for it in London. It now is almost ffinish'd and very magnificent, the Quire w^th Curious Carved work in wood, y^e arch Bishops seate and y^e Bishop of Londons and Lord Majors is very finely Carv'd and adorned, y^e alter alsoe with velvet and gold; on y^e Right side is placed a Large Crimson velvet Elbow chaire w^ch is for the Dean. This is all finished (w^th a sweet organ) but y^e body of y^e Church w^ch is to be Closed on y^e top w^th a Large Cupilo is not quite done. There was formerly in y^e Citty severall houses of y^e Noblemens w^th Large gardens and out houses and Great attendances, but of Late are pulled down and built into streetes and squares and Called by y^e names of y^e noblemen, and this is the practise by almost all even just to y^e Court Excepting one or two.

Northumberland and Bedford house, and Lord Mountagues house indeed has been new built and is very fine, one roome in y^e middle of y^e building is of a surpriseing height Curiously painted v and very Large, yet soe Contrived y^t speake very Low to y^e wall or wanscoate in one Corner and it should be heard w^th advantage in y^e very opposite Corner aCross-this I heard Myself. And this Leads me to y^e Citty of Westminster in w^ch are many of these noblemens houses built into very fine squares. Y^e kings pallace was a most magnificent building all of freestone, w^th appartments suiteable to y^e Court of a King, in w^ch was a Large roome Called the Banqueting-roome w^ch was fitted for and used in all Publick solemnityes and audiences of ambassadours &. This is y^e only thing Left of y^e vast building which by accident or Carelessness, if not designe, has Laid it in ashes together w^th Exceeding Rich furniture of antiquity, as alsoe y^e greate and good Queen Mary's Closet and Curious treasures. This has all along y^e prospect of y^e Thames on one side and a Large parke on y^e other, walled in, which is full of very fine walkes and rowes of trees, ponds and Curious birds Deer, and some fine Cows. In this parke stands another pallace S^t James, w^ch is very well and was built for some of y^e Royal Familly as y^e Duke of Yorke or Prince of Wales. There is at Whitehall in y^e privy Garden a Large pond w^th a spout of water of a vast height. This of S^t James is Little but daily building adding may make it greate.

There is alsoe one Nobleman's house, is this Parke House w^ch is a very Curious Building. Just by this parke you Enter another Much Larger, Hide-parke, w^ch is for Rideing on horseback but mostly for y^e Coaches, there being a ring railed in round w^ch a Gravel way y^t would admitt of twelve if not more rowes of Coaches, w^ch y^e Gentry to take y^e aire and see each other Comes and drives round and round; one row going Contrary to each other affords a pleaseing diversion. The rest of y^e parke is green and full of deer, there are Large ponds w^th fish and fowle. Y^e whole Length of this parke there is a high Causey of a good breadth, 3 Coaches may pass and on Each side are Rowes of posts on w^ch are Glasses-Cases for Lamps w^ch are Lighted in y^e Evening and appeares very fine as well as safe for y^e passenger. This is only a private roade y^e king had w^ch reaches to Kensington, where for aire our Great King W^m bought a house and filled it for a Retirement w^th pretty gardens. Besides these y^e king has a pallace in y^e Strand w^th fine gardens all to y^e Thames river, this appertaines to y^e Queen Dowager while she Lives. In this place was y^t cruel Barbarous Murder of S^r Edmund Berry Godfrey by y^e papists.

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